Good friend Darren Spencer from Aussie Outback Supplies in Perth has been supplying our swag and outdoor products for more than eight years. It has become somewhat of a tradition that one weekend in September we take a break somewhere "wild" and enjoy the fishing and wildlife that the NT has to offer in abundance.

Last year we stayed at Aurora Kakadu and enjoyed a trip down to the mouth of the South Alligator River. This year I decided to spend a couple of days exploring and fishing in the proposed Mary River National Park, staying the night with Mike and Gina Ostwald at Mary River Park on the Kakadu Highway.

The night before I had picked up a suitable aluminium boat and trailer from Top End Boat Hire at Berrimah, and we headed off before sunrise on Saturday morning. About an hour later we were slipping the boat into a small billabong only a few minutes drive off the Arnhem Highway, and after loading up the essential tackle by the time the sun came up we were casting flies and lures at some very likely looking snags. These became more visible as the early morning mist dissipated in the warm tropical air. This place looked good!

An hour or so later we pulled the boat out, and headed off to the next spot, well pleased with our efforts. We had raised a number of fish, without landing any, but it was clear that there was a healthy population of both Saratoga and barra in the area. As well Darren had hooked (and released) a small freshwater crocodile that had actually taken his lure as we drifted over a shallow sandbar.

The wildlife had been spectacular, with many different species of waterfowl in clear view. Wallabies and Buffalo all paid a visit to the billabong while we were fishing, and did not seem perturbed by our presence in the boat.

A short drive later we slipped the boat into the sweet waters of the Mary River at the ramp next to the bridge. This is one of my favourite stretches of water; accessible, picturesque, and lightly fished except for a few savvy guides. We spent a pleasant couple of hours trolling, casting to some awesome snags, and fly fishing, for a total of three dropped fish, two healthy Saratoga and two barramundi. Although we released these fish, the barramundi from this billabong are sweet eating, certainly the match of any barra caught in saltwater.

After such an early start, we were looking for a break, and while Darren spent some time taking the boat up the Mary River Park landing, (capturing another two barra) I took the car and trailer over the bridge and into the Park to check in. Emma already had our room ready, with the air con just ticking over to enable a comfortable "camp" before lunch at the bar.

That afternoon was AFL Grand Final day and we spent the arvo in front of a TV watching the demolition of another wild species "The Magpies!" Leaving in disgust a little before the final siren, we took the boat upstream about as far as you can go, casting and trolling for not very much but enjoying the evening and spectacular sunset.

On the left bank are a number of grassed sites that Mike is preparing for next season. With over three kilometres of river bank, Mike is developing a package for campers, 4WD's and caravaners, where they can actually camp right on the bank of the Mary River, high up on grassy, well shaded sites that are strategically spaced some distance apart to ensure the campers enjoy the solitude and wildlife on display. These spectacular sites will be ready soon after the wet season in early 2004.

We spent the evening in the restaurant at Mary River Park, and enjoyed an excellent steak and salad with Mike, Gina and Emma, before turning in at a respectable hour - we had an early appointment with the 4WD track at the Wildman next morning.

After a quick fishing session, (one barra; one Saratoga) and breakfast (bacon eggs and all the trimmings) we left the boat moored in the river an headed off to the start of the 4WD track, about 30 minutes away off the Point Stuart road.

This is a moderately rough track of about 70 kilometres, suitable for four wheel drives or vehicles with appropriate clearance. It would be necessary to have a full complement of safety gear; shovel; ropes; spare tyres etc, but the track is not difficult in the dry season and the crossings are relatively dry and easy if taken slowly. One of the features of the drive is the diversity of habitat; from shady paperbark forests, barren floodplain, wide savannah grasslands, rugged escarpment country, and cool monsoon rainforests.

The wildlife is amazing, and would certainly equal if not excel anything Kakadu has to offer. We pulled up at a likely looking billabong and within a few minutes of casting from the bank had three good-sized Saratoga to my credit. Not to be outdone, Darren's persistent casting paid off with two togas, his first on fly.

The track wound its way around the floodplains east of Corroborree, and we had lunch at a spot where a week earlier I had watched two dingo pups playing in the long, still green grass. After a quick refreshing drink and a cool off at Hardies Creek, we cut across a big plain and fished for a while in one of the rock holes. These are numerous between Hardies and the Mary River proper, and we saw a couple of decent fish while we were casting.

On the way home I showed Darren where Mike and I had climbed a huge rock pile to get an unforgettable view of the track; also we stopped at a small billabong where my poppers had persistently been attacked by a couple of the resident crocs. It seems they just cant resist the pop-pop action of these lures and become very territorial!

We got back to Mary River Park about 4 pm, in time for another quick fish before heading back to Darwin. This was a relaxing and exciting trip with plenty to do and see. In this part of the world there is also something going on!

For more information on the Mary River 4WD track get hold of Mike at Mary River Park. He knows the area well, and does occasional tours out onto the wetlands during the dry season. His phone number is O8 8978 8877